AQUA TOFANA
This collection stems off of the ideas of: The reversal of power within male-dominated spaces and womanly desire. Giulia Tofana was a woman who created and distributed a poison, Aqua Tofana, to women seeking escape from abusive marriages. This collection follows the arc of her lie, beginning with her early work in the apothecary and tracing her journey through to her eventual capture and execution. Because her story unfolds during the Italian Renaissance, I researched the poisons history, domestic life of Giulia, and menswear of the period to shape visual concept of a woman assuming the role and authority traditionally reserved for men. Drawing from this research, I developed five looks that trace her evolution over the course of approximately forty years.
MOOD BOARD
The design process began by collaging and draping menswear suiting to reimagine traditional tailored forms.
RESEARCH SCANS
FABRIC TREATMENT
Fabrics are stained using black tea and coffee to represent a sense of wear, age, and lived experience within the garments. This dyeing process is applied throughout Looks 1–5 in varied ways, creating subtle differences in tone, texture, and intensity across each piece.
Arsenic poisoning shown on human skin
Aqua Tofana’s primary ingredients were belladonna and arsenic. Silk charmeuse and taffeta are dyed with black tea to show the physical effects of arsenic poisoning on the human body. This surface treatment appears as a print across Looks 1–5.
FABRIC STORY
100% Silks: Charmeuse. Chiffon. Taffeta. Shantung.
100% Wool: Boiled wool. Double wool crepe. Single wool crepe.
Leather: Lambskin and Cow
Linings’s: Silk Charmeuse and Organza. Rayon lining
LOOK ONE
HAND DRAWN PRINT
BELLA DONNA
Look 1 represents the beginning of Giulia Tofana’s life in the apothecary. The garment’s silhouette is inspired by the pots and tools used in her practice, with elements of the belladonna plant incorporated as a print throughout. Leather fringe is applied and hand-drawn over with motifs derived from the plant and Manna bottles. Stained fabric is present throughout, reflecting the wear of her everyday work.
Handwritten lists of Giulia’s clients and apothecary ingredients, accompanied by illustrations of the belladonna plant used in Aqua Tofana. Hidden in the linings of the garments to emphasize her secrecy.
LEATHER PRINTED FRINGE
Prints of the belladonna plant and Manna di San Nicola bottles are illustrated directly onto the leather, creating a cohesive design.
BRA LINING AND DETAIL
SELF: Stained organza, silk charmeuse, printed organza, leather, silk ties
LINING: Stained silk organza and charmeuse
PRINT TRANSFERRED TO ORGANZA
FINAL TOILE FITTING - JANUARY 2026
PANT LINING AND FINISHING
SELF: Single wool crepe, silk chiffon, printed silk organza, and silk shantung ties
LINING: Stained silk charmeuse and organza
IN MEDIA RES FASHION SHOW - LOOK 1
LOOK TWO
GIULIA
Look 2 represents Giulia’s continued time in the apothecary, as she begins producing and selling Aqua Tofana. The exaggerated silhouettes reference the pots and tools used in apothecary practice. The layered skirt draws from historical imagery of merchants from this period. Fringe cuffs are embellished with hand-drawn motifs inspired by Manna bottles and the belladonna plant.
FINAL MUSLIN FITTING AND FABRIC MANIPULATION
PRINTED LEATHER
Hand drawn print of Bella donna plant and manna di sanna prints. Cut into fringe and used in looks 2 & 3
IN MEDIA RES FASHION SHOW - LOOK 2
SKIRT LINING AND DETAIL
SELF: Silk Shantung with distressed silk chiffon and organza. Leather tie
LINING: Silk shantung and chiffon bias tape
TOP LINING AND DETAIL
SELF: Leather, rooster coqui tail feathers, silk chiffon, charmeuse, and distressed organza
LINING: Stained silk charmeuse layered under black organza.
FINAL FABRIC FITTING
In progress fitting - April 2026 - Silk top and skirt with leather fringe arm cuff and fringe scarf
LOOK THREE
MANNA DI SANNA
Look 3 represents the height of Giulia’s distribution of Aqua Tofana. This look is designed to reflect how she concealed and sold the poison. The coat draws inspiration from merchant garments of the period, while the Manna di San Nicola bottle is replicated within the jacket, with interior pockets constructed to securely hold the bottles in place.
FINAL MUSLIN FITTING
COAT LINING AND DETAIL
SELF: Wool crepe, distressed silk organza and chiffon, bronze metal buttons
LINING: Stained silk taffeta and printed silk chiffon with manna di manna ingredient print
PANT LINING AND DETAIL
SELF: Wool crepe, leather, silk shantung, and silk charmeuse ties
LINING: Stained silk taffeta bias tape and silk organza lining
LEG FRINGE CUFF
Hand drawn print onto leather of Bella donna plant and manna di sanna print. Leather cut into fringe.
FINAL FABRIC FITTING
In progress fitting - April 2026 - Wool Coat, Wool/leather pant, and leather fringe sample cuffsIN MEDIA RES FASHION SHOW - LOOK 3
LOOK 4
GIROLAMO
Look 4 represents the moment Giulia is discovered by authorities. The design draws from the stained glass of the church where she sought refuge, paired with a draped coat Inspired by religous garments of the time. The silhouette specifically references Priest Girolamo, who supplied arsenic For her poison and provided her with protection during this period.
COAT INSPIRED BY PRIESTS GARMENTS DURING 1600S ITALY
FELT POCKET SAMPLE BEFORE SEWN INTO COAT
FINAL FABRIC SHOOT
In progress shoot - March 2026 - Dress, Corset, and Coat
FIRST MUSLIN FITTING - DRESS
FIINAL FABRIC FITTING - DRESS
DRESS FINISHING AND DETAIL
SELF: Silk charmeuse and chiffon
CORSET LINING AND DETAIL
SELF: Silk shantung, distressed organza, leather, and silk charmeuse ties
LINING: stained silk charmeuse layered under silk organza
400 pattern piece dress, replicates the shape and line work of the stained glass onto the original dress blocks. On top sits hundreds of distressed pieces of chiffon sewn into the seams to emphasize the wear, and use that is visible on stained glass. Made with silk chiffon and charmeuse.
PATTERN AND CONSTRUCTION PROCESS
IN MEDIA RES FASHION SHOW - LOOK 4
LOOK FIVE
DRESS PROCESS
C A S T E L L D E L L ’ O V O
Look 5 represents Giulia’s capture. This is conveyed through a tightly corseted dress and structured jacket, creating a restrained, constricted silhouette. The dress features ties and handmade fringe detailing, emphasizing a sense of confinement and captivity. It is paired with a chiffon skirt printed with 600 handwritten names representing her victims. The silhouette and color are taken from the manna bottles and the castle, Castell Dell’ovo, where she was kept before her ultimate death.
FINAL TOILE FITTING - FEBRUARY 2026
Hand basted chiffon to silk shantung dress. Chiffon scraps are distressed by hand and tea stained
FINAL FABRIC FITTING
In progress fitting - March 2026 - Silk Jacket and Dress
Cutil dress with steel boning sewn between self and lining. Used for structure and stiffness
JACKET PROCESS
SKIRT LINING AND DETAIL
SELF: Printed silk chiffon and stained silk charmeuse, distressed chiffon between seams
LINING: Black silk chiffon
Silk chiffon skirt contains 600 names of Giulias victims. Each word is hand written onto freezer paper and transferred onto chiffon with matte finisher
FINAL FABRIC SHOOT
In progress shoot - March 2026 - Silk Jacket and Dress
DRESS LINING AND DETAIL
SELF: Silk shantung, silk taffeta, distressed chiffon and organza, rooster coque tail feather, silk string, bronze grommets
LINING: silk taffeta and rayon lining
DRESS AND JACKET LINING
JACKET LINING AND DETAIL
SELF: Silk shantung, distressed organza, leather, silk chiffon, rooster coque tail feathers, and silk string
LINING: Silk shantung and rayon lining
IN MEDIA RES FASHION SHOW - LOOK 5
fINAL LINE UP
